Archive for June, 2008

Italy-Spain: Widows for One Night

Tuesday, June 24th, 2008

For the past ten years the amateur theater group in the little town of S. Agata dei Goti, has been masterfuly directed by my next door neighbor, the retired comedy actress Hilde Maria Renzi, has put on a play in neapolitan dialect by Eduardo de Filippo. This year’s offering, Fortuna con la “F” Maiuscola, débuted inside the courtyard of the town’s 17th century episcopio, or bishopric, and was filled to the brim with men, women, children, and local dignitaries. In its 11th season this is such social a high point that the show is prolonged for four days, allowing the whole town to see the show. Tickets are free.

But who could have forseen that this year Italy would be still be in the European Championship playoffs?! For days people were talking of nothing else. The local bars had set up improvised screens with big white bed sheets. At 8 p.m. people were already arriving, armed with chairs, flags and anxiously tooting their whistles. As I walked towards the outdoor theatre, I wondered if there would really be anybody willing to forego the excruciating excitement to see an old Eduardo de Filippo play…

At 9 o’clock there were 10 old women sitting in a sea of empty green chairs. However, in dribs and drabs, slowly but surly more and more people began to arrive. By 9:30 the episcopio was practically full: women of all ages had decided to come to the theater, leaving behind their husbands and sons to watch their soccer team.

As the lights were about to go down an old woman looked around and chuckled to her friends: “It looks like we’re all widows for one night!”

 

Posted in Articles, Events, Italian Notebook, Odds and Ends | No Comments »

Cantine Aperte: A Day of Wines and Roses

Monday, June 16th, 2008

 

It’s been three years since we moved to the Sannio and as memories of the big city fade, an ever-increasing regard for the process of Nature unfolds before me. While walking my dog I welcome the morning dew. I smell the earth, sense the weather and delight in the taste of fresh fruits and vegetables appena colti. Springtime is luscious in every sense: there is a promise of good things, in the greenness of the grass, the budding fruit trees, the climbing pea stalks and the sweet smell of jasmine.

Cantine Aperte takes place on the last Sunday in May and is a perfect occasion to appreciate all this in a single day and to learn what makes the wines in this area so special. For me and the wines of the Sannio, it is the roses…everywhere.

This might seem like a feeble attempt at waxing poetic, but it’s basically true. The oenological reality of this territory is still one of small, single-estate producers that heralds back to a time when families lived off the land and worked their orchards. And so it was that before the advent of metal wire, farmers used their fruit trees as a support for the grape vines. And since the different crops were hand-picked it was easy to harvest (for example) the pears without damaging the grapes and vice versa.

It is wonderful to see the vestiges of this tradition in the Sannio which is why a well-made Aglianico will taste of wild berries, violets, walnut and tobacco and a good Falanghina will speak of apples and almonds and the presence of jasmine and roses.

Posted in Articles, Events, Odds and Ends, Sights, Wine | 2 Comments »

Aquapetra Resort and Spa

Sunday, June 8th, 2008

Our mission at Savour the Sannio is to extol the beauty, history and culinary wealth of the Sannio.

Happily, there is now a haven where the body and spirit can relax and recharge as well. What could be more conducive then an exclusive hideaway, deep in the lap of luxury and far from the chaos of smog and traffic? Inaugurated on June 1st, the spanking new wellness centre of Aquapetra Resort & Spa is a sight for sore city eyes.

Rebuilt from the ruins of a medieval borgo or hamlet and painstakingly restored (the landscaping alone took 11 years!) the centre overlooks immense groves of pristine oaks and silent olives. In the distance rises La Dormiente, or ‘The Sleeping Woman’ as the Taburno mountain is called, due to the resemblance of its outline to a female figure at rest.

It is a calm and gracious setting that gently envelopes you in its silvery-green landscape.

All rooms are equipped with SKY TV and wi-fi internet connection. Prices include a generous buffet breakfast, the use of the pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, Turkish bath and a top line of cosmetics. The complex has a large glass-panelled meeting-room which boasts a spectacular 360° panorama, ideal for motivational and executive meetings, along with beautiful dining facilities that offer regional, national and international cuisine.

 

Posted in Accommodations, Articles | No Comments »