Archive for the ‘Slow Travel’ Category

A Circus in Sassinoro

Wednesday, November 4th, 2009

On the day of my visit to the sanctuary of S. Lucia in Sassinoro, I had an experience so glorious in its absurdity that it had to be documented and shared.

While admiring the inside of the church of S. Lucia in Sassinoro, my host Giovanna pointed out the last-minute preparations being made for a wedding that was to take place shortly: the bride and groom’s seats and pew had been padded with white satin drapery; the central aisle carpeted with a white runner and strewn carefully with orange rose petals.  Bouquets of yellow flowers decorated the pews on either side of the carpet, creating a strong visual perspective towards the magnificent, suspended cross with its incredible, rocky backdrop.

As we walked out into the dappled sunlight I began to say my goodbyes, but my eyes were drawn to a strange apparition on the far side of the courtyard, standing directly opposite a white marble statue of Padre Pio.  Like the glimmering image of St. Michael in the dark grotto of 1600, a young man stood, emanating a blinding light.  I had to blinked twice to make sure my eyes weren’t deceiving me.

He was olive-skinned and decked from head to toe in shades of cream and white.  A diamond-studded clasp closed the lapels of a jacket made out of what seemed to be upholstery fabric; a smaller pin glinted at his throat in place of a tie.  While the unhemmed pants billowed out over his cream-coloured boots, a jauntily-held white cane brought my gaze back to ruffled shirt-cuffs peaking out from the jacket sleeves.  The whole thing was topped off by a top hat studded with sequins.

Could this be St. Barnum or Bailey, I wondered, or was it a character out of a Savoyard production of Gilbert & Sullivan? The total effect was of a ring-leader at a circus and I watched, tranfixed, to see whether he would pull a rabbit out of his hat.

“Oh my God” I gasped, “It’s the groom!”

Two considertions broke into my mind.  What kind of person could have suggested this bizarre outfit and had the young man had to pay for it?

At that moment the bride’s entourage pulled up at the the gate below, cars piling up behind the  10-meter limousine which huffed to a halt at the bottom of the stairs.  Out spilled a cresting wave of white tulle.

St. Lucia is the patron saint of the blind and this girl must have been a long-standing member of the congregation because the lenses of her glasses were thick as bottle-bottoms. Her father - also dressed in white, but with an interesting shade of purple shirt and tie – helped her out of the car and proudly led her up the stairs.  Not to be outdone, her mother wore a red strapless gown while her aunt videoed the procession from behind in a tight-fitting black dress with a striking cleavage.  Someone at the top of the steps shouted down to the bride as she bravely navigated the stairs that she was lifting her dress too high for decency…

The riotous assembly regrouped in the sunlit churchyard, as the four-year-old bridesmaid augustly took her place behind the couple and holding the end of veil in her tiny hands.

The statue of Padre Pio, unperturbed by the garish show, calmly blessed everyone as they entered into the shadows of the church.

Posted in Articles, Italian Notebook, Odds and Ends, Slow Travel | No Comments »

Chessgame of Titans

Monday, October 19th, 2009

While on a heritage tour with an Italo-American family who had come to meet their Italian relatives, we spent some time with their family near the tiny hilltop village of S. Giorgio la Molara in the province of Benevento.

This is a vast farming region of rolling hills and an immense checker-board effect is created by the colors of the crops: predominant are the powder blue of the sky, the rich browns of the tilled fields and the grey-greens of olive, tobacco and corn, with golden necklaces of tabacco neatly hanging to dry on wooden racks.

At first glance it’s an idyllic scene, with sheep grazing in the meadows, far from the drama of Naples or the exhaltation of the Amalfi Coast.  But it’s a stark, spartan place, where in the early part of the last century lives were torn apart by back-breaking labor, famine and emigration and where even today familes live isolated lives highlighted only by births, baptisms, weddings and funerals.

As we travelled through the countryside, huge turbines harvested the Autumn winds and I reflected that nothing here goes to waste.  And then I was struck by how this stark landscape, viewed from the air, might seem like some titanic game of chess, with the huge windmills posing as pawns on an awesome and endless chessboard.

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S. Lucia in Sassinoro: Between a Rock and a Hard Place

Monday, October 19th, 2009

I wound my way up the narrow road towards the tiny, secluded sanctuary of S. Lucia in Sassinoro. I was on my way to meet Giovanna, a volunteer in the shrine’s wee gift shop.  She and her husband Giorgio were part of the family I was researching for a heritage tour.

Like many holy places, the legend surrounding S. Lucia in Sassinoro began in the spring of 1600 as a shepherd’s tale.  A number of sheep had been mysteriously disappearing and just as mysteriously reappearing again after a few minutes, so the shepherds decided to follow the flock as they grazed.  They discovered that the animals were going in and out of a split in the rocky face of the mountain.  They squeezed through the narrow crack and made their way into the hillside until they reached a grotto where they were suddenly blinded by the appearance of a beautiful woman and a handsome young man bathed in shimmering light.

They ran home to tell of their miraculous encounter and returned with the town priest to verify the account.  In the grotto they found a statue of S. Lucia and S. Michele!  The town fathers decided to erect a place of worship on the spot and construction of the sanctuary began in 1622 and was completed in 1643.

Today this quaint little church nestles quietly into the mountain above the village of Sassinoro. But once inside, the feeling becomes one of awe as the apse is dramatically set into the huge overhanging face of the grotto. It is still possible to squeeze through the original path which the shepherds took on all fours, to view the ancient statues of S. Lucia and S. Michele.

S. Lucia is the patron saint of the blind and a small room off the side of the church is filled with reliquaries containing silver ex-votos donated by faithful worshipers who have regained their sight after praying to her.

A Circus Comes to Sassinoro

On the day of my visit to the sanctuary, I had an experience so glorious in its absurdity that it had to be documented and shared.

While admiring the inside of the church of S. Lucia in Sassinoro, my host Giovanna pointed out the last-minute preparations being made for a wedding that was to take place shortly: the bride and groom’s seats and pew had been padded with white satin drapery; the central aisle carpeted with a white runner and strewn carefully with orange rose petals.  Bouquets of yellow flowers decorated the pews on either side of the carpet, creating a strong visual perspective towards the magnificent, suspended cross with its incredible, rocky backdrop.

As we walked out into the dappled sunlight I began to say my goodbyes, but my eyes were drawn to a strange apparition on the far side of the courtyard, standing directly opposite a white marble statue of Padre Pio.  Like the glimmering image of St. Michael in the dark grotto of 1600, a young man stood, emanating a blinding light.  I had to blinked twice to make sure my eyes weren’t deceiving me.

He was olive-skinned and decked from head to toe in shades of cream and white.  A diamond-studded clasp closed the lapels of a jacket made out of what seemed to be upholstery fabric; a smaller pin glinted at his throat in place of a tie.  While the unhemmed pants billowed out over his cream-coloured boots, a jauntily-held white cane brought my gaze back to ruffled shirt-cuffs peaking out from the jacket sleeves.  The whole thing was topped off by a top hat studded with sequins.

Could this be St. Barnum or Bailey, I wondered, or was it a character out of a Savoyard production of Gilbert & Sullivan? The total effect was of a ring-leader at a circus and I watched, tranfixed, to see whether he would pull a rabbit out of his hat.

“Oh my God”, I gasped slowly, “It’s the groom!”

Two considertions broke into my mind.  What kind of person could have suggested this bizarre outfit and had the young man had to pay for it?

At that moment the bride’s entourage pulled up at the the gate below, cars piling up behind the her 10-meter limousine which huffed to a halt at the bottom of the stairs.  Out spilled a cresting wave of white tulle.

This gal must have been a long-standing member of the congregation of S. Lucia because the lenses of her glasses were thick as bottle-bottoms. Her father  - also dressed in white, but with an interesting shade of purple shirt and tie – helped her out of the car and proudly led her up the stairs.  Not to be outdone, her mother wore a red strapless gown while her aunt videoed the procession from behind in a tight-fitting black dress with a striking cleavage.  Someone at the top of the steps shouted down to the bride as she bravely navigated the stairs that she was lifting her dress too high for decency…

The riotous assembly regrouped in the sunlit churchyard, as the four-year-old bridesmaid augustly took her place behind the couple and holding the end of veil in her tiny hands.

Padre Pio, unperturbed by the garish show, calmly blessed everyone as they entered into the shadows of the church.

Posted in Articles, Italian Notebook, Places to Visit, Sights, Slow Travel | No Comments »

Ancient Traditions: To Bee or Not to Bee - Sweet Liquid Gold of the Sannio

Monday, May 4th, 2009

cliccare quì per leggere in italiano

A Savour the Sannio Culinary Adventure
Saturday, June 13th

The Sannio is renowned for its excellent honey. Graced with fertile land and temperate climate, the meadows and heirloom orchards of the Beneventano provide an ideal environment for busy honey bees. It comes as no surprise therefore that the Sannio is one of Italy’s largest producers of honey.

Life on Earth as we know it depends on the honey bee, Nature’s hardest working citizens. “No bees, no honey; no work, no money” the old saying goes: master ecologists, they are essential for the pollination of many fruit, nuts and vegetable crops. It is said that were the honey bee to disappear from the face of the globe, Man would quickly follow.

Little-known facts about bees:
Bees have 5 eyes, can fly at 20 mph and have two pairs of wings; an average hive can hold over 50,000 bees in the summer; the queen bee lays over 1500 eggs per day which is equivalent to the weight of her own body; losing its stinger will cause a bee to die; bees carry pollen on their hind legs; to make one pound of honey foragers must collect nectar from 2 million flowers; the average forager will make about 1/12 of a teaspoon of honey in her lifetime.

What a buzz! So take the day to appreciate the product of these noble creatures while enjoying the fresh air and sunshine in the company of the Razzano family at their beautiful organic farm. A glorious day out for family and friends! A jar of honey makes a great gift.

PROGRAM
10:00 - 11am –Guided visits to the beehives. We will put on protective gear and visit the bees’ waxy homes to see how they live and are cared for.
11:00 - 12 am – Take part in the process of honey-making
12:00 – 1:00 pm – Jam-Making. Over an open fire guests will be able to participate in the ritual stirring of the season’s first jams.
1:30 pm – 4 course lunch with wine.
After lunch relax in the gardens, children can have fun at the playground or visit the farm animals or visit Sant’Agata de’ Goti.

Cost: Adults 45,00 euro Children (6-12) 20,00 euro Children (1-5) free

To reserve your place or for more information contact Barbara Goldfield or call 0823.953663, 347.1416866, 338.8802315.

“Honey, even more than wine, is a reflection of place. If the process of grape to glass is alchemy, then the trail from blossom to bottle is one of reflection. The nectar collected by the bee is the spirit and sap of the plant, its sweetest juice. Honey is the flower transmuted, its scent and beauty transformed into aroma and taste.” - Stephanie Rosenbaum

Bees work for man, and yet they never bruise
Their Master’s flower, but leave it having done,
As fair as ever and as fit to use;
So both the flower doth stay and honey run.
- George Herbert

And last but not least, a reminder: unless you want to be pollinated by bees, don’t wear perfume  in the garden!

DIRECTIONS BY CAR FROM ROME
1. take the AI motorway south towards Naples and exit at CAIANELLO (125km from the Roma Sud tollgate).
2. take the SS 372 Telesina (first right) towards Benevento.
3. after 35 km take the exit for S. Agata dei Goti and Naples.
4. you will now be on the Fondo Valle dell’Isclero  (call us at this point.  You are about 15 minutes away)
5. Take exit for Sant’Agata dei Goti.  Follow this road for about 1km and look out for the wooden sign with Ape Regina on your right.

By respecting all the speed limits the trip should take no more that 3 1/2 hours.

DIRECTIONS BY CAR FROM NAPLES take the A1 Motorway north and exit at Caserta Sud.  Follow the signs for Benevento and Telese. After passing the Carolino Aqueduct, take the second exit marked Sant’Agata dei Goti. (call us at this point.  You are about 5 minutes away)  Follow this road for about 1km and look out for the wooden sign with Ape Regina on your right.

(Many thanks to David Traylor for the title of this event)

Watch the fascinating TED video on bees.

Posted in Food, Slow Travel, Tasty Tidings: Culinary Adventures in the Sannio, Tours and Events | No Comments »

Antiche Tradizioni: Conosciamo le Api ed il Loro Dolce Oro Liquido

Monday, May 4th, 2009

Una Gustosa Avventura con Savour the Sannio
Sabato, 13 Giungo

Click here for English version

Il Sannio è noto per il suo miele di qualità: le api trovano ancora in questa regione ampie campagne e paesaggi arricchiti da colline, montagne, orti e frutteti. Non sorprende che questo ricco ambiente regali un prodotto ottimo e vario.

La vita come la conosciamo sulla Terra dipende molto dall’ape: è uno dei nostri più utili ed instancabili concittadini, conosciuta fin dall’antichità come proverbiale simbolo di grande lavoratrice. Oggi apprezziamo anche il ruolo di questi insetti nella indispensabile impollinazione di molti raccolti di frutta e verdure.
Si dice che se l’ape dovesse scomparire dal pianeta l’Uomo non sopravviverebbe a lungo.

Alcuni dati poco noti sulle api:
Sono dotate di 5 occhi e  volano ad oltre 35 km/h con le loro due paia di ali; un alveare in estate può ospitare in media 50.000 individui; la regina è l’unica a deporre uova, oltre 1500 al giorno, pari al peso del suo corpo; un’ape muore se perde il pungiglione; il polline viene trasportato sulle zampe posteriori; per produrre 1 etto di miele le operaie bottinatrici devono visitare mezzo milione di fiori; quindi nella sua breve vita un’operaia ne  produce mezzo cucchiaino.

C’è di che farsi ronzare le orecchie! Quindi approfittate dell’occasione per conoscere da vicino queste grandi piccole creature, e godere una giornata all’aperto in compagnia della famiglia Razzano, nella loro Azienda biologica. Sarà una magnifica scampagnata per famiglie, bambini ed amici. Ed un barattolo di miele è sempre un dolce regalo.

PROGRAMMA
10:00 -11:00 – Visite guidate alle arnie. Indosseremo le protezioni per vedere da vicino come le api vivono e sono curate nelle loro case di cera.
11:00 – 12:00 – Dimostrazione della raccolta del miele
12:00 – 13:00 – Preparazione delle marmellate. Gli ospiti potranno vedere e partecipare alle tradizionali confetture della prima frutta di stagione.
13:30 – Pranzo di 4 portate ed ottimo vino della casa
Relax dopo pranzo nei giardini, i piccoli troveranno giochi ed animali da avvicinare; oppure passeggiata in S. Agata.

Prezzi: Adulti 45,00 €  Bambini (6-12) 20,00 € Bambini (1-5) Gratuito

Per prenotare, o per maggiori dettagli telefonare 0823.953663, 347.1416866, 338.8802315 o contattateci qui

“Il miele, ancor più del vino, rispecchia un luogo. Se dal grappolo al bicchiere è un cammino di alchimia, allora dal fiore al vaso è uno di riflessione. Il nettare raccolto dall’ape è spirito ed essenza della pianta, il suo succo più dolce. Il miele è il fiore trasmutato, il suo profumo e bellezza cambiati in aroma e gusto.” -Stephanie Rosenbaum.

“Le api lavorano per l’uomo, eppure mai rovinano
Il fiore del padron; ma volate, lo lasciano,
Bello e sano come sempre;
Così insieme vive il fiore e scorre il miele.” - George Herbert

Ed infine, ma da non trascurare, meglio evitare di mettere profumo, quando si sta vicino alle api!

DIREZIONI PER S. AGATA DEI GOTI DA ROMA
1. Prendere l’Autostrada del Sole AI verso Napoli e uscire a CAIANELLO (125km dal casello di Roma Sud).
2. Prendere la SS 372 Telesina (prima destra) verso Benevento.
3. Dopo 35 km prendere l’uscita per S. Agata dei Goti e Napoli.
4. Siete sul Fondo Valle dell’Isclero  (Chiamateci a questo punto.  Mancano circa 15 minuti di strada)

5. Prendere l’uscita per Sant’Agata dei Goti.  Seguire questa strada fino all’ultima uscita, girare a sinistra e poi a destra.  Questa stradina vi porterà al bivio per l’Ape Regina (sulla destra) dopo circa un kilometro.

Rispettando tutti i limiti di velocità il tempo di percorrenza non supera 3 ore e mezza.

DA NAPOLI prendere l’Autostrada del Sole A1 verso nord e uscire a Caserta Sud.  Seguire indicazioni per Marcianise o Benevento.  Circa 1km seguire indicazioni verso destra per Benevento/Maddaloni/Telese.  Dopo 3.5 km uscire a destra per Benevento.  Dopo circa 4km girare a sinistra seguendo indicazioni per Telese/Sant’Agata dei Goti.  Dopo aver passati sotto l’Aquedotto Carolino, dopo circa 9km prendere la seconda uscita che indica Sant’Agata dei Goti. (chiamateci a questo punto.  Mancano circa 5 minuti)  Questa stradina vi porterà al bivio per l’Ape Regina (sulla destra) dopo circa un kilometro.

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