“This is one of those rare places that should be kept jealously secret and revealed only to those who can appreciate that state of euphoria when every pleasurable sense is fullfilled; like that offered by Berardino Lombardo, anthropological chef-turned-farmer-and-breeder who, with his wife Antonietta, has created a breath-taking restaurant, situated amidst ancient chestnut groves and the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina.”

One and a half hours south of Rome - an easy drive down the A1 motorway - lies a very special restaurant run by a very special man. The estate is called Terre di Conca, with an 18^th century casale in tufa rock set in 40 hectares of woods and organically-grown farmland. The man, Chef Berardino Lombardo, is credited for having single-handedly saved the autochthonous breed of black pig, or maiale nero casertano. In 1955 there were only 25 specimens alive and the breed was listed in the FAO World Watch List for Domestic Animal Diversity as at risk of extinction. The particular characteristics of this species are that they have black skin, are practically hairless and have a protuberance, similar to earrings, on either side of the neck called bargigli. Today Berardino raises approximately 200 pigs a year that live in semi-freedom, feasting on the chestnuts and acorns in the rich, dense woods of his estate. He makes fine cured meats, lardo secco (dry lard) and a product of his own invention, La Stringata, the result of tying together - thus the name ‘stringed’ - lard, bacon and loin of pork. On arrival participants will meet the chef and watch as he prepares traditional, mouth-watering pork dishes around his huge stove (salvaged from an ancient convent and lovingly restored). Recipes are not available beforehand as they depend on the ripe fruits and vegetables that are hand-picked the day before. Most certainly, however, he will be using the famous annurca apples, another autochthonous variety of the region.

At lunch a huge meal will be served, accompanied by excellent wines. Guests are then welcome to spend the afternoon walking through the estate, viewing Antonietta’s priceless antique lace and embroidery collection and relaxing by Terre di Conca’s majestic fireplace. For those with enough energy, we can visit some of the nearby sites of interest.

Cost: Adults: €50,00. Children 5-12: €25,00. Toddlers up to 5: free.

To participate register here no later than January 20th. Minimum 15 people. Maximum 30.

Read the past testimonials:

“We had a wonderful Saturday. Thank you for setting that up. It was like a mini holiday far from the business of Rome. The food was amazing, the setting spectacular and the company delightful.”

“We enjoyed the day so much ourselves. We were trying to decide on our way home what our favorite dish was and we all agreed, it was everything! For all of us it was a very memorable day.”

“We had a very nice time on Saturday. So thoughtful of you to order the lovely weather to go with the good food.”

Read what the food experts have to say about Berardino Lombardo:

Luciana Squadrilli (Gambero Rosso):
Berardino Lombardo latest invention is “La Stringata”, an extraordinary example of cured pork and a monument to flavour.”

Faith Willinger:
“Berardino’s organic farm supplies the restaurant with poultry, rabbits, pork, salumi and a garden of heirloom vegetables and fruits. The menu is pure tradition, with local just-made mozzarella, sheep’s milk ricotta, and polenta sauced with sausage, for starters”…”The bread is outstanding, baked in their wood-burning oven”…”There’s local pecorino aged in barrique casks, caciocavallo cheese aged six, twelve, or eighteen months, jam tarts (with homemade jam from organic heirloom fruit), conventuali butter cookies, spiraled with nuts and raisins, and scauratielli, or boiled cookies drenched with honey and orange zest. ”

Luciano Pignataro:
“This is one of those rare places that should be kept jealously secret and revealed sparingly and to those who appreciate the state of euphoria that comes when every pleasurable sense is fullfilled; such as that offered by Berardino Lombardo, anthropological chef-turned-farmer-and-breeder who, with his wife Antonietta, have created a breath-taking restaurant, situated amidst ancient chestnut groves on the slopes of the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina.”

Date: Saturday, February 23rd

Time: 10am - 5pm

Directions:

Take the A1 Highway south (towards Naples) and exit at San Vittore.

Follow the signs for Mignano Montelungo. After 2 km circa you will come to a large intersection with a stoplight. Turn right onto the Via Casilina and continue for 8.5 km. Turn right at signs for Mignano Montelungo.

Cross the railroad, go through Mignano and follow signs for Conca della Campania (or Conca), for another 8.5 kms. There are no signs for Terre di Conca which is on the left before reaching Frazione Piantoli, but the entrance is right after the sign indicating the Parco Regionale di Roccamonfina.

“Qualche tempo fa Berardino Lombardo aveva lasciato La Caveja, il locale di Pietravairano di cui era chef e patron, senza dare più notizia di sé. Lo abbiamo ritrovato di recente a portare in giro per manifestazioni gastronomiche e botteghe gourmet la “stringata”, straordinario salume di sua creazione. Un po’ stufo della vita da ristoratore, ha preferito infatti lasciare quel mondo per dedicarsi all’allevamento di maiali di razza nera casertana e alla cura della terra alle pendici del vulcano di Roccamonfina, nella storica Terra di Lavoro:«Qualcuno mi ha detto “che fai, invece di andare avanti torni indietro?” ma questo per me non è un passo indietro, bensì un ritorno alla terra, alla materia prima. Ora mi voglio concentrare su questo» racconta lui che, nonostante i ritmi della campagna non siano poi meno faticosi di quelli del ristorante, sembra perfettamente a suo agio in questa nuova realtà.

Già da qualche anno si era trasferito con la moglie Antonietta e i due figli nella splendida tenuta di Piantoli: 30 ettari di terreno incolto e un rudere abbandonato era quel che restava del “giardino” della famiglia Galdieri, antichi signori di Conca della Campania. Loro hanno trasformato il rudere in un bellissimo casale con i muri in pietra viva, il salone con l’ampio camino, la sala degustazione con tanto di vecchio bancone in legno e affettatrice Berkel rossa scintillante, quattro camere per gli ospiti arredate con bei mobili d’epoca raccolti negli anni da Berardino e Antonietta (collezionista di pizzi e ricami) ma anche una moderna cucina.

A Terre di Conca – dove oltre ai corsi di cucina, c’è in programma la creazione di un vero e proprio laboratorio di ricerca sui cibi tipici locali – si trova una cucina “povera”, fatta di sapori veri e intensi come è ormai difficile trovare altrove, a base di piatti della tradizione locale e di quel che offre la natura: in inverno non manca mai il maiale (anche in molti sughi della tradizione, come ragù e “genovese”), in primavera e estate abbondano le verdure mentre in autunno il bosco dona funghi e castagne.

Della cucina si occupa Antonietta, bravissima cuoca che nel week end (durante la settimana lavora in tutt’altro ambito) si mette ai fornelli, mentre alcune donne del luogo cuociono nel forno a legna pagnotte a lievitazione naturale e gustose pizze arrecanate con pomodoro e origano. Berardino, invece, si dedica alla terra:

«Questo è un territorio eccezionale, grazie al terreno vulcanico. Quando abbiamo comprato era tutto abbandonato, ma abbiamo trovato un patrimonio unico!».
L’azienda ospita anche un vigneto di 3 ettari di primitivo e aglianicone (i primi esperimenti sono già in cantina), un oliveto con circa 300 piante di cultivar Sessanella, tantissime varietà antiche di mele – dalle deliziose annurche e limoncelle a quelle ancora non ben identificate – pere, ciliegie e altri tipi di frutta.

Poi ci sono gli animali: i maiali neri, innanzitutto, con il pelo scuro e il caratteristico “ciucaglio” (o sciacquaglie, escrescenze ai lati del muso che richiamano i pendagli degli orecchini femminili), che crescono allo stato semibrado nel bosco: durante l’anno mangiano quello che dà la terra – zucche, mele – poi nel periodo precedente alla macellazione si mettono all’ingrasso con ghiande e castagne.«In queste zone il maiale era una preziosa risorsa; cresceva al risparmio, poi alla fine gli si dava il
meglio per avere le carni più buone» racconta Berardino. Proprio dai suoi ricordi di famiglia nasce la stringata: «mio padre aveva un vero e proprio culto per il maiale,
e già pensava a come utilizzarlo in modo diverso, rivalutando i tagli meno nobili. Io, dopo 40 anni, ho realizzato la sua idea».

Pancetta, lombo e il saporito lardo dei maiali più grandi (lui li porta a circa 2,5 quintali, sfatando il mito che questa razza non sia adatta a raggiungere grandi pezzature) vengono trasformati in questi salumi monumentali ripiegati su stessi, cuciti e stretti tradue assi di legno. Dopo la salatura, una leggera affumicatura (ma ora sé alla prova una variante senza fumo) e la prima stagionatura in luogo asciutto, la stringata fa altri 8 mesi in grotta: dopo un anno è perfetta. Ottimi sono anche prosciutti, capicolli e guanciali, così come le soppressate e le salsicce ricavate dagli animali più piccoli.

A Terra di Conca si allevano anche polli e faraone per il ristorante (aperto su prenotazione nei week end e tutte le sere in estate) e i prelibati capponi che, dopo un anno di assenza a causa dell’aviaria, torneranno per il prossimo Natale. «Siamo andati più volte in Francia a vedere come allevano le galline di Bresse» racconta lui,
che ama la ricerca e la sperimentazione. Osservando il suo sguardo inquieto, viene da chiedersi quale sarà la sua prossima mossa.”

l’articolo originale

Rugged, handsome and charismatic, Berardino Lombardo is the product of his native region, the Sannio. Ever since he can remember, the land, its people and the food have been a constant source of inspiration in every aspect of his work – both as a chef as well as a world-class breeder and producer of pork and cured meats.

Chef Lombardo is a man with a mission. Born and raised in the Sannio, he is passionate about maintaining the great culinary traditions of Southern Italy. He has spent years tracking down local recipes, cajoling mothers, grandmothers and great-grandmothers into sharing the cooking wisdom that has been handed down from mother to daughter. His philosophy is based on three basic principles: respect the land, follow the seasons and always keep in mind the history behind each recipe. His organic farm supplies the ingredients used in his recipes. He raises fruit, vegetables, geese, ducks, guinea hens, cows and the famous maiale nero casertano, once on the verge of extinction. He produces fine cured meats and salamis as well as a unique creation of his own invention, “la Stringata”, the result of tying together lard, bacon and loin of pork - hence the name - ’stringed’.

In the early 90’s Berardino launched and ran La Caveja, one of the region’s best-known restaurants. But such was his desire for perfection, he decided to create his own estate where he could grow the produce for his new restaurant according to his own strict guidelines. At Terre di Conca, with its 40 hectares of organically grown farmland, Berardino could finally dedicate time to accumulating a seed bank for local varieties of heirloom fruits and vegetables, many of which are on the verge of exctinction. But he is best known for his selective breeding of the Casertan black pig (maiale nero Casertano), once on the verge of extinction, which roam in the woods on his estate.

Here is what the food critics say about Berardino Lombardo:

Faith Willinger, author of Adventures of an Italian Food Lover:
“Berardino’s organic farm supplies the restaurant with poultry, rabbits, pork, salumi and a garden of heirloom vegetables and fruits. The menu is pure tradition, with local just-made mozzarella, sheep’s milk ricotta, and polenta sauced with sausage, for starters”…”The bread is outstanding, baked in their wood-burning oven”…”There’s local pecorino aged in barrique casks, caciocavallo cheese aged six, twelve, or eighteen months, jam tarts (with homemade jam from organic heirloom fruit), conventuali butter cookies, spiraled with nuts and raisins, and scauratielli, or boiled cookies drenched with honey and orange zest. ”

Luciana Squadrilli (Gambero Rosso):
Berardino Lombardo has invented “La Stringata”, a monument to flavour and an extraordinary example of cured pork.”

Luciano Pignataro:
“This is one of those rare places that should be kept jealously secret and revealed sparingly only to those capable of appreciating the state of euphoria that comes when every pleasurable sense is fullfilled; like that offered by Berardino Lombardo, anthropological chef-turned-farmer-and-breeder who, with his wife Antonietta, have created a breath-taking restaurant, situated amidst ancient chestnut groves and the extinct volcano of Roccamonfina.”

Berardino Lombardo è animato da una grande passione per la sua terra d’origine e la applica da sempre in tutti gli aspetti della sua attività. Creando anni fa il ristorante La Caveja e basandone la cucina ed il successo su ricette e prodotti assolutamente locali e di qualità, ha sviluppato il suo interesse al punto di decidere di avviare la sua propria Azienda, Terre di Conca, su bellissime colline in vista del suo paese. Qui l’esperienza maturata in cucina e l’amore per la terra ed i suoi frutti stagionali si combinano; la profonda conoscenza delle varietà locali di ortaggi, frutta ed olive come pure l’allevamento di galline, faraone ed oche. Infine ed ancora più speciali i selezionatissimi maiali neri casertani allevati quasi in libertà: oltre agli ottimi salumi classici, Berardino ne ha creato uno suo da gustare solo qui. La stessa ricerca è applicata nelle ricette spesso recuperate nei giorni di mercato incontrando gli anziani della zona.

from Adventures of an Italian Food Lover (ISBN 978-0-307-34639-1 Clarkson Potter Publications)

“…Berardino Lombardo - tall, handsome, bearded, blue-eyed - is the powerhouse behind La Caveja, hidden on a curve before the village of Pietravairano, about an hour south of Rome. There’s a casual wine bar, where locals snack on homemade salumi, cheese, a few simple dishes, and wine, and La Stalla, a comfortable one-room restaurant housed in the stables, a culinary destination where Nadia de Simone charms. On my first visit Berardino was basting a capon turning on a spit-roaster in the hearth fireplace. I was entranced.

“Berardino’s organic farm supplies the restaurant with poultry, rabbits, pork, salumi and a garden of heirloom vegetables an fruits. The menu is pure tradition, with local just-made mozzarella, sheep’s milk ricotta, and polenta sauced with sausage, for starters. Diners continue with soup, then handmade pasta or gnocchi, but there are always two different kinds of pancotto, or bread cooked with vegetables. The bread is outstanding, baked in a wood-burning oven. Also look for main courses like simple roast chiken or capon, packed with flavor. There’s local pecorino aged in barrique casks, caciocavallo cheese aged six, twelve, or eighteen months, jam tarts (with homemade jam from organic heirloom fruit), conventuali butter cookies, spiraled with nuts and raisins, and scauratielli, or boiled cookies drenched with honey and orange zest. Each course can be paired with an appropriate wine by the glass or diners can choose from the surprisingly extensive list of Italian wines, especialy strong in the wines of Campania…”

“Antonietta Rotondo runs a wonderful agriturismo farm inn, Terre di Conca, not too far from her husband Berardino Lombardo’s restaurant inn, where we met for the first time. They bought the farm in a state of total abandon, the house an uninhabitable, roofless ruin, and have lovingly resurrected it, now dedicated to cultivating the local foods. Beradino and Antonietta began with black pigs - a native breed - and poultry such as guinea hens, chickens, and capons to supply his restaurant. Later he grafted the heirloom fruit trees (over twelve kinds of apples!) growing wild on the property and planted saved seeds for local tomatoes, greens, eggplants, and squash. Antonietta guided therestoration of the house. It’s appropriately rustic, with a large open fireplace surrounded by sofas in the living room and a table nearby where guests both breakfast and dine in the evening. Antonietta is one of Italy’s most important collectors of antique lace from the sixteenth centuries, and some of her pieces are displayed in the living room. Lace-trimmed or embroidered linens in the bedrooms are a joy to sleep on. Ask to see her extensive collection of handkerchiefs, from a time when the handkerchief was a most important fashion accessory.

“Antonietta does all the cooking on the farm, utilizing produce straight from her organic garden. I hung out in her kitchen as she prepared dinner, which included two vegetable dishes; both were so terrific and easy that I couldn’t decide which recipe to ask for, so I got them both…”